Thursday April 25

The weather was a bit rougher today with gusty showers and strong wind.  I’m hoping it will ease by tomorrow so I can pack the annex away without it getting blown away and, secretly, I am hoping the seas will also become calmer for my crossing of the strait tomorrow night.  I was looking for a bag to carry some stuff up to the cabin but it may be that I will use a bucket which will serve a dual purpose!

I drove up to Wivenhoe today which is a suburb of Burnie.  I went prowling in the local graveyard looking for our maternal grandfather.   He is buried in what is politely called the “Non-Conformist” section.  I guess this means he was not a good catholic when he died.  I also found 3 other graves with the O’Connor surname so will pass the info on to the family historian who will no doubt delve into their past.

As the weather was not really conducive to sitting around camp I decided to “steer”(an islander term for driving) my way up to the Rhododendron Garden at Emu Valley in the hinterland behind Burnie.

Just beautiful!!  While the Rhodos are not in flower till spring the autumn colours were stunning.  A visual feast for us gardeners.  Enjoy!

 

 

The gardens cover some 11 hectares and contain over 22 000 plants.  The whole thing is maintained by a group of very friendly volunteers.  Entry is $8.00(April 2013) and well worth it.

Web site www.emuvalleyrhodo.com.au add this to your links list on the blog.

 

 

 

Friday April 26

Very windy today which does not bode well for a calm crossing.  Mrs Bucket may be accompanying me tonight.

I know I seem to be spending a lot of time looking at trees and gardens etc. so you won’t mind if I tell you about the Tasmanian Arboretum which is located just out of Devonport on Old Tramway Road.  This is a large open park area and displays woody plants from the temperate zone of the world.  It has a particularly fine stand of Wollemi Pines and a terrific section on Tasmania endemic plants.  There are plenty of picnic areas with tables and barbeques.  There is a resident platypus in one of the lakes.  I went into the hide and found a fellow all set up with his camera on a tripod trying to get a photo of one.  It seems he had been there most of the morning with no success.  I wander in and within a minute spotted one in the totally opposite direction to where he was looking.  He didn’t seem to pleased by that!

Saturday April 27 Sunday April 28

3 Quells and a stubbie of beer worked wonders for keeping my stomach on an even keel during the crossing!!!  Unfortunately not a lot of sleep though as the engines were quite noisy and the occasional crashing of waves/swells on the hull kept me awake.  Still I was thankful I didn’t need Mrs Bucket.  Off the ship by 6.45am and at my sisters by about 8.  It has been a quiet weekend catching up on all the family happenings and visiting my other sister and brother.  Having a nice home cooked roast for Sunday tea.  Yum oh!!!

 

Thursday April 18

Zeehan, Granville Harbour, Corinna, Reece Dam, Tullah, Lake Plimsoll and return to Zeehan

Interesting and varied drive and again just so much stunning scenery especially out at Granville Harbour and around Lake Plimsoll.  All roads good sealed surfaces however, the road out to Granville Harbour is gravel, narrow and bendy as is the road off the main road that goes out to the Pieman River crossing at Corinna.  If you want to take your car across the river it will cost $20.  I didn’t and decided to do the circuit via the Reece Dam Road, Tullah and Lake Plimsoll back to Zeehan.

  Granville Harbour

 Reece Dam which created Lake Pieman

 

Lake Plimsoll.  This is a stunning mountain scenery drive.

Friday April 19

 

After some low temperatures and a bit of frost it cleared to a bright clear sunny day.  Terrific drive out to Trial Harbour.  Glorious views down the west coast to as far as Cape Sorell at the entrance to Macquarie Harbour.  Stunning place.

 

View down the coast to Macquarie Heads

 

Trial Harbour



 My trusty steed basking in the west coast sun

 

In the afternoon I took advantage of the weather and drove out to Montezuma falls one of the highest waterfalls if not the highest waterfall in Tassie.  A lovely rainforest walk along another disused rail line which means it was easy going.

My experience with trains and old railway lines has bought home to me how critical railways were to settlement in the west.  In a place of rugged mountains it is amazing that railways were seen as a solution to getting minerals out and people and supplies in.

 

 

 

 

Saturday April 20

Another heavy frost so the annex was packed away wet but the makers tell me the fabric is resistant to mould.  On the road heading to the north west coast by about 10.30.  Dry, sunny but brisk day.  Called into Waratah on the way.  A lovely little mining town.

I headed for another recommended free camp at Riana Pioneer Camp Ground south of Burnie.  Very pleasant but all the powered sites were taken and the remaining sites were on a bit of a slope so went onto Wings Wild Life Park south of Ulverstone.  Anyway to cut a long story short I ended up at the Apex Caravan Park in Ulverstone.  Nice place and right on the beach.

Sunday April 21

After some further thought I decided to go through to Devonport and set up for 5 days whilst waiting for the ferry on the 26^th.  This also allows me to get some minor changes made to the annex as the makers are based here.  Before leaving Ulverstone I had a terrific breakfast at Lancaster House yum oh!

Arrived at the Abel Tasman Caravan Park at East Devonport, very close to the ferry terminal, mid-morning.  Met Chris and his partner from Queensland who are catching the ferry tonight and then heading to WA.  Chris told me about Wikicamps which is an app for iphones and android phones.  I have downloaded it ($2.99) and it looks as though it is going to be useful.  It is like Wikipedia in that users determine the content by adding comments, photos and info about camp sites, caravan parks and places of interest.  Afternoon in camp doing domestics.  Poured with rain for most of the night.

Monday April 22

Heavy showers for most of the day.  Went into town and spent the rest of day around camp.  Will be meeting Jim and Gayle for breakfast in the morning when they arrive on the ferry returning from Queensland.

Tuesday April 23

In and around Devonport.  Clear blue skies and warm sun out of the wind.  Took the front wall of the annex to the guy who made it for some alterations.  Very kindly, there was no charge and warm wishes for a safe journey.  Went for a bit of cruise out through the township of Forth and the major vegetable growing areas.

Discovered a free camping site that isn’t listed in the Camps 6 book.  It is on the banks of the Forth River in the grounds of the Forth recreation ground.  There are clean toilets and electric barbeques.  Very pleasant and only about 20ks from Devonport and about 12ks from Ulverstone.

 

Spent the afternoon relaxing in the sun and then for a brisk walk around the neighbourhood and along the Mersey River.

Wednesday April 24

You know when you are out driving and you see a directional sign pointing to somewhere you think it would be good to visit and you say to yourself that I must go there one day well, today I finally went to a place I have driven past the turn off to on several occasions.  That place!  Leven Canyon.  Located around 40ks inland from Devonport it is well worth the drive.

 

After leaving Devonport via Forth the undulating road takes you through some of the most productive vegetable farms in the country before heading into pine plantations and then rainforest before reaching the turnoff to the canyon car park.  There is also a pleasant picnic area here with toilets.

 

There are three walks that can be done separately or as a complete circuit of between 45mins and 1 hour(or longer) depending on your level of fitness.  The tracks are well made and one is a bit steep but undulating while another section includes 697 steps.  About 1.5ks further down the road from the car park there is also a steep walk down to the floor of the canyon about 20mins return.

I know, I know more rainforest and rivers but hey, I like 'em!

 

 Now, I know Tassie is a small place but you’ll never guess who I meet on the walk.  Remember Jennifer and Dennis from Lakes Entrance in Victoria who I had met in Zeehan?  They pulled into the car park just in front of me.  Small world.

Also met another couple who are from Warrnambool in Victoria.  They told me of their fishing triumphs on the banks of the Forth River at Turners Beach.  They caught 3 decent size black back salmon in the estuary.  One for you fisherpersons to remember if you are up this way.

Finished the day with a very pleasant walk along the walking/cycle path that runs from the ferry terminal past the caravan park I am staying at and along the coast to East Devonport.  6ks return.

 

Monday April 15

Lake Margaret Power Station

I had intended to go up to Waddamana power station museum if I had stayed at Wayatinah.  As it happens what I wanted to see, the wooden staved penstock pipe, is not at Waddamana.  It is at Lake Margaret.  This hydro power system was built by the Mount Lyell Mining Company to supply power to the mine in Queenstown.  It is only in recent times, mid 80s I think, that it was taken over by Hydro Tasmania.

Remember Noddy, the guy in Queenstown, he use to work at this power station so was able to tell me quite a bit about it.  Unfortunately visitors are not encouraged by Hydro Tas.  There are signs everywhere warning of danger and that you enter at your  own risk.  The turn off into the station and the remains of township is about 9ks out of Queenstown heading toward Zeehan and is on the right hand side of the highway.  It is a gravel road well-made and winds its way up then down to the power station.  Not suitable for towing plus there is insufficient room at the end of the road for turning if you are towing.

 

I really didn’t need to go all the way to the power station as the best access to the wooden staved penstock is along the road as I discovered on the way out.  Still, it was an interesting drive and if the Hydro weren’t so paranoid and some money was spent to upgrade facilities at the power station it would be a great tourist attraction.

 

Tuesday April 16

Gordon River Cruise

The cruise boat leaves at 8.30am from Strahan and returns at 2.30pm.  6 hours of stunning scenery, terrific buffet lunch and a very entertaining guided tour of Sarah Island.  All I can say is well, just do it!  It is worth every dollar.

 

 

 

 

“Keep this treasure and hand it on to posterity so that those who come after will learn about beauty, about awe, about wonder, because it is in the southwest of Tasmania that you will have a chance to solve the mystery at the heart of things.”  Professor Manning Clark, Hobart, June 1980.

 

Our entertaining guide on Sarah Island.

 

Wednesday April 17

 Queenstown to Zeehan

Once the fog lifted and the sun came out it was quite a mild day.  Packed up and on the road to Zeehan by about 10.30am.  Arrived at the Zeehan caravan park around 11.30 and was set up in time for a snack lunch and cuppa.  The caravan park is quite good, showers are hot and the shower head is above your head.  $18 per night for a powered site.

Went down the town and did some shopping and checked out the West Coast Heritage Centre.  A terrific museum with a vast array of exhibits.  These west coasters certainly know how to present their history in innovative ways.

When I got back I found I had neighbours, Dennis and Jennifer from Lakes Entrance in Victoria.  Interesting to talk to them about that area of Gippsland as it is the way I will go once I get to the big island(at this stage).  Also Jimmy from Queensland and his partner travelling the state in a 1969 fibreglass classic caravan.  Interesting guy to talk to.  He was quite taken with my setup.

Hello fellow travelers.  As I have indicated below I accidentally deleted all  my previous posts!!!!  I have recreated them but all your comments have been lost.  Sorry.  Anyway things are back on track now including me!  Because I am about a week or so behind in posting I will make several posts over the next few days so you don't have to much to read at once.
 

Thursday April 11 Sandford

I have booked on the Spirit of Tasmania for Friday 26 April.  That was the first available date although they offered to wait list me for Tuesday 16^th.  In the meantime I have decided to head off for the west coast and slowly work my way round to Devonport.

Left home around 10ish with a plan to stay at Wayatinah which is about halfway between Hobart and Queenstown.  A widely varying drive both in terms of the nature of the roads and country side.  Rolling hills of farmland around Hamilton and Ouse gave way to heavy rain forest as I approached Wayatinah.  Very hilly and winding road(Lyell Highway) which was a good test of the pulling power of the Deli with a fully loaded trailer.  It passed!!!

Got to Wayatinah early afternoon and cruised the caravan park which inspired me to go on to Derwent Bridge with a call-in stop at Brady’s Lake to check out the possibility of  a free camp site.  Not overly impressed with either the free campsite or the caravan park in the National Park at Derwent Bridge which is run by a private operator for $20 a night for an unpowered site.  The sites were two small for my set up and the powered sites at $30 weren’t much better.  No solo nomad rates.

So, decided to push onto Queenstown which I reached around 4 ish.  In the caravan park and set up by 5.30 just before dark.  A great little park and although the amenities block is a bit dated the showers are hot, the water pressure good and the shower rose is above your head not in the middle of your chest!!!  At $15 per night for a powered site it is a great spot to setup and explore the surrounding area.  Note:  your tent pegs will not like the gravel sites but when it rained and it did rain as it only can on the west coast, at least the water drained away quickly.  Super strong mobile and internet signals.

 

 

 

Friday April 12 Queenstown

With the promise of a fine, clear day I decided to wander down to the ABT Wilderness Railway station and buy a ticket and I am very glad I did.  While not the cheapest attraction at $133 it was well worth the money.  5 hours of stunning wilderness scenery, history, informative commentary, numerous photo opportunities and a pleasant lunch stop.  The train arrived in Strahan around 3 with an hour in Strahan whilst waiting for the return coach to Queenstown. 

 

Saturday April 13 Queenstown

It rained!!  Spent the day in town.  Went to the look out, and the local photographic museum which is well worth a visit.  Entry $6 and $5 for seniors.  My distinguished ever greying nomad look got me in for the seniors price.  Checked out what else is available to see and do in the area by having a chat with a friendly guy called Noddy who runs the local gift/souvenir shop(no his assistant’s name is not Big Ears).  Turns out her worked for the Hydro in the past so was able to tell me all about the Lake Margaret power station and the wooden staved pipeline.  He also told me how to access the road that takes you to the Bird River Bridge and walk to Kelly Basin on Macquarie Harbour.

After spending a very informative half hour or so with Noddy I headed back along the Lyell Highway towards Hobart to visit Nelson Falls( another Noddy recommendation).  It was pouring with rain which is very appropriate for a rainforest walk to a water fall(you may remember my east coast experience with waterfalls – dry!)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunday April 14

It stopped raining and while overcast it started to clear around mid-morning by which time I was on the road south of Queenstown heading out to do the rail line drive and walk to Kelly Basin which is on the north east corner of Macquarie Harbour(approx.).  The road is very good.  Wide and sealed built by the HEC to access the Crotty and Darwin dams which they built on the King River and which created Lake Burbury.  It was the last scheme built by the HEC.

You will be treated to spectacular mountain scenery and vistas over the south west wilderness area.  The road changes to gravel just after the Darwin dam but maintains its width and the surface is very well made.  It becomes narrow about 10ks further on and moves into the South West World Heritage Area under the control of the National Parks and Wildlife Service(NPWS).  About another 10ks or so further on you come upon a fork in the road(no knife or spoon).

 

To the left are Mt McCall and the Franklin River.  Go up the little rise on the right and you will be on the old rail line route to the Bird River Bridge.  A fantastic drive.  It is basically level, single lane with a good surface(suitable for 2wd at least it was when I went).  However, I would suggest you take a bowsaw(or chainsaw) with you as there may be fallen limbs blocking your way.  There is no mobile reception.

After about 5ks you will arrive at the Bird River Bridge parking area and walker registration station.  Make sure you sign in and out of the book.  The walk to Kelly Basin starts at the bridge and continues along the remaining section of the rail line route to Kelly Basin.  3 hours walking return with an hour there for lunch and to explore the ruins.  The track can be very muddy after rain and it can be a bit of a scramble in places where the rail line route has collapsed or been washed out by the Bird River.

Kelly Basin was the site of a large mining town called Pillinger and there was a long railway wharf where the ore was shipped out and supplies in.

 

 

The above pics show Kelly Basin as it is now and the other as it was early last century.  The rain forest has reclaimed it but there are some interesting ruins to be seen.

Ok, in between the second post and the one that follows I had some medical issues which delayed my departure but finally I got on the road.

On the Road

A bit of a spell since the last post.  The neck is healed and the final packing went well.  What follows is an account of my first week on the road.  Happy reading.

Wednesday March 28 to Wednesday April 3

On the road to Swansea by around lunch time with an ice cream stop at Triabunna.

 

As you can see I have almost everything and yes that includes the kitchen sink!

Arrived at Jim and Gayle’s onsite van mid-afternoon and settled in for the Easter break.  The plan was to spend the holidays at the park and wait till the “crowds” had headed home before venturing around to Coles Bay.  Great spot Swansea and although the wind was prevalent the days were mild with refreshing nights.  I was joined by Ainslie and Roz for a couple of days as they enjoy their fishing and the flat head and squid accommodated their enthusiasm.                                                                  Sunrise over the Hazards from Swansea beach.

I enjoyed daily walks utilising a very pleasant beach, coastal, town circuit with some variations.  I also visited some local waterfalls which unfortunately due to a lack of rain over the last few months were “water less”.  Note: only visit waterfalls if there is water.

Wednesday April 3 to Sunday 7 April

If you are visiting Coles Bay and are wanting somewhere to park you caravan, motorhome, camper trailer or set up your tent then I highly recommend the River and Rocks free camp site about 6ks north of the Coles Bay township (Camps 6 Tassie Section camp no. 39 or co-ordinates 42 05 12 S  148 14 03 E).

 

 

There is a central “communal” type area with room for big rigs surrounded by individual and somewhat secluded sites all with their own wood fire and bbq plate.  Note you need to bring everything as there is no water or firewood on site.  Be prepared for fine dusty black soil especially after heavy usage as any grass coverage can be a bit thin.  There are toilets but unfortunately they were not useable after being hammered over the Easter break.

There is a boat ramp at Swanick, about 2ks down the road, which will give the fisherpersons among you access the Great Swan Port Lagoon.  There are two boat ramps at Coles bay that will give you access to Great Oyster Bay.

Coles Bay town ship has a bakery, tavern, 2 supermarkets and one fuel station.  For some reason best known to the proprietors of the fuel stop unleaded was $1.78/ltr diesel $1.75/ltr while 50ks down the road at Swansea unleaded was $1.57.  That’s a lot of freight for 50ks!!!  Water was available from a tap at the Community Centre.

Rivers and Rocks is a great base from which to explore the delights of Coles Bay and Freycinet National Park.  A day entry pass is $24 per car for up to eight people and must be displayed at all times.  What to see mmm….. where to start?  I have lived in Tassie all my life and this was my first visit to this area so I was a bit overwhelmed by all the options.  Walks and amazing scenery are what’s on offer.

Wine Glass Bay Lookout and Beach with return to the car park via Hazards Beach and a coastal track.

This walk is around 12ks and took me (at 57 and slightly out of condition) around 5 hours including stops to soak up the views etc.  I was joined by a young couple from Queensland who kept the pace steady so I think the time was down to them (thanks Andy and Trish).

The track from the car park to the lookout is very well made, takes you past some magnificent red granite boulder outcrops and is very steep in places with lots of steps and, being to a lookout, is ascending.

 

 
 

The iconic view once you get to the lookout

 

Once you leave the lookout you can return via the same track to your car or you can go down to the beach at Wine Glass Bay.  Again, the track is well constructed with lots of steps which left my knees and calf muscles a bit sore but boy oh boy was it worth it.  Note the crowds and this was after Easter!!!.

 

Again, you can return to your car via the same track but if you have made it this far I would recommend you take the isthmus track which brings you out onto Hazards beach on the opposite side of the peninsula to Wine Glass Bay.  Walk along this beautiful beach and pick up the undulating track that takes you around the coast back to the car park.  This also provides you numerous sweeping views of Great Oyster Bay with Swansea in the distance and lovely views of Coles Bay.

 

 Take something to eat, water and wear “sensible shoes”(I am yet to encounter a “stupid shoe” although I do know some “silly souls”)

Cape Tourville

If you want to be stunned by coastal scenery then this 5k drive off the main road is a must.  The road is sealed with heavily broken edges, narrow, and very steep in places and I would not recommend towing a caravan or camper trailer (another reason to set your base up at River and Rocks).  Once you reach the light house car park don’t miss the 700 meter cliff top walk on a very well-constructed flat track with securely fenced boardwalks.  The views are well……… a picture is worth a thousand words……….

 



 

 On the way into or out of the Cape take the time to stop at the Sleepy Bay car park and enjoy a pretty coastal walk to the lovely little granite sand beach with some rock formations to equal those on Kangaroo Island in South Australia.

On your journey back to camp call into Richardson’s beach just before the Parks Info Centre.  More great photo opportunities.  Another interesting detour is into Swanick to have a look at the “holiday houses” and the view along 9 mile beach at Dolphin Sands.

Friendly Beaches

Wow, if you are into beaches and walking then they are very friendly indeed!!!

You can camp here by booking and paying at the National Parks office in Coles Bay.  The sites are well constructed but smallish.  Clean and modern toilet facilities are available but no water.

All up 9 out of 10 and that’s just the first week!!!!!!!!!!!!

Where to Now?

Back to Hobart for more training on the 8^th and 9^th.  I have decided to get to the big island sooner rather than later and give the west coast a miss at this stage.  Went on-line to the Spirit of Tasmania site to book a passage for the 12^th only to discover that it is booked out for vehicles until April 26 !!!  Quick call to the Customer Service Centre resulted in me being put on a waiting list for cancellations on the 16^th.  I still booked for the 26^th as it seems it is the annual migration season for Tassie grey nomads!!!

Not sure what I will do in the meantime.  The west coast might still be an option unless anyone needs, a bar worker, clerk, forklift driver, handyman, gardener etc etc in the interim???